Cotton – The natural fiber and our most important raw material

What is cotton?

Cotton is a natural fiber obtained from the cotton plant (genus Gossypium). This plant belongs to the mallow family (Malvaceae). The fibers, known as cotton, are the soft, hair-like structures that surround the plant's seeds.

The history of cotton

The ancient world: Cotton was domesticated in India about 5,000 to 7,000 years ago. It was also used in Egypt and China.

The Middle Ages: In the Middle Ages, cotton cultivation spread to Europe through trade via the Arab world.

The Industrial Revolution: In the 18th and 19th centuries, machines revolutionized cotton production. The textile industry grew rapidly, and cotton became the number one textile fiber, with an 80% market share.

20th century to the present day: By the mid-19th century, cotton fibers were increasingly replaced by synthetic fibers such as polyester. Today, new cultivation methods and technologies lead to higher yields, and since the 1970s, there have been increasing efforts in sustainable and fair cotton production..

How is cotton made?

The growth

Today, cotton plants are cultivated annually in over 70 countries worldwide. They require warm temperatures and plenty of sunlight to thrive. They grow in tropical and subtropical climates – the so-called cotton belt, located between 36° south and 43° north of the equator.

The cotton plant

As a natural plant fiber, cotton grows on small bushes that reach heights of 0.25 m to 2.00 m, depending on the species, climate, and cultivation method. After sowing, the plant requires plenty of moisture, and during maturity, it requires plenty of warmth and dryness. The plant initially forms buds, which later develop into flowers. After pollination, the fruit capsules, known as "bolls" or "bolts," develop. When ripe, the capsules burst open, revealing the cotton fibers.

The harvest

Cotton is harvested either mechanically or manually. In manual harvesting, the cotton is picked by pickers and then separated from the seeds. In mechanical harvesting, specialized machines are used to collect the cotton more efficiently.

The cotton quality

The raw cotton fiber is traded according to the criteria of uniformity, fineness, colour, purity, feel, strength and elasticity:

Stack length

The most important quality characteristic is fiber length (staple length). Fiber length generally ranges between 28 and 42 mm. Staple length is divided into four classes: Around 90% of the world's cotton production falls into short and medium staple categories. Short staples are characterized by a length of up to 26 mm or shorter. Medium staples range between 26 and 29 mm. 7-8% are long staples with a length of 30-38 mm. The rare extra-long staples make up 2.3% and, at 39 mm or longer, are used for particularly high-quality, expensive textiles.

The longer the staple, the more valuable the cotton. The finest and longest cotton has the greatest strength relative to its cross-section, a factor that is important for spinning the finest cotton yarns. In our chenille production, we only use yarns made from high-quality long-staple cotton fibers.

Moisture absorption capacity

Cotton fibers can stretch by 8-10% both when dry and when wet. A striking property of cotton is that its wet strength is usually even higher than its dry strength. This makes cotton resistant to all wet treatments and can be boiled and spun without damage. Due to its hollow spaces, cotton fibers can absorb 65% of their own weight in water without dripping. This absorbency and boil-resistance make cotton the ideal fiber for many textiles, including towels.

Cotton colour

White, slightly yellowish, slightly spotty, spotty, slightly greyish

Structural features

The thickness of the individual fibers is determined under an electron microscope. The corkscrew-like twists and hollow spaces in the center of the fibers are also assessed under the microscope. This allows us to determine whether the fibers are mature with well-developed cell walls or immature fibers with thin cell walls, which also indicates a reduction in quality. Another characteristic of cotton is that it is easy to dye, which is also the basis for our FEILER chenille and terry fabric.. Due to its favorable natural properties, cotton has become the most widely processed textile fiber.

The cotton fiber in the spinning mill

After the cotton fibers have been tested for quality, they are sent to the spinning mill, where the yarn is produced. Yarn production should be as consistent as possible so that it can then be further processed into a fabric in weaving mills.

Determination of the yarn strength of a cotton fiber

When determining the yarn thickness (fineness) of a yarn, it is not possible to specify the diameter, as a round cross-section is rarely present. For this reason, the measured values of length and weight are used to designate fineness. In the cotton processing industry, this method is known as the "metric numbering system." The metric number (Nm) is the length per gram, meaning the higher the number, the finer the yarn.

The dyeing factory: Colourful cotton for colourful cotton fabrics

Dyed yarns are necessary for the production of colorful, patterned fabrics. For FEILER terry cloth and chenille items, we use only dyed yarns from German dyehouses that meet the high quality and environmental standards of our products. These factories are certified and dye according to the European REACH regulation.

How are cotton yarns dyed?

The dyed yarns are wound onto dyeing bobbins with a soft winding. These bobbins are perforated, which pressurizes and sucks in the dyed water. The water temperature and the dwell time (dyeing time) play a crucial role.

Cotton properties: What kind of fabric is cotton?

Cotton is a natural fabric made from the fibers of the cotton plant. Here are the key properties of cotton fabric:

• Softness: Cotton is known for its softness and feels comfortable on the skin without being scratchy.
• Breathability: It allows air to circulate, making it comfortable to wear, especially in warm weather.
• Moisture absorption: Cotton absorbs moisture well, making it ideal for clothing and towels.
• Durability: Cotton fabrics are robust and resistant to wear and tear.
• Easy care: They are easy to wash and can be washed and ironed at high temperatures.
• Hypoallergenic: Cotton is hypoallergenic and rarely causes skin irritation, making it a good choice for sensitive skin.

How does cotton feel?

The positive properties of cotton make it ideal for the production of home and bathroom textiles. At FEILER, we distinguish between two fabric types: chenille and terry, which are specifically manufactured for the interior, beauty, and bathroom industries and are therefore particularly skin-friendly.

Velvety soft chenille made from 100% cotton

Chenille is a plush fabric with a velvety texture on both the front and back. We use a special weaving technique to weave cotton threads in various steps to create our finished chenille.

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Terry cloth made of 100% cotton

Our high-quality terry cloth is produced on special terry weaving machines that weave the cotton yarns into loose loops. The height and density of the loops determine the weight of the fabric and thus the quality of the towel.